This article is the second one related to Timelapse and Hyperlapse photography. In the first, we saw the first tips on how to start setting up the making of a Timelapse / Hyperlapse video.
Making these works today is very simple and many smartphones already have built-in features that allow you to make Timelapse videos, making it easier than ever to create an accelerated version of real life.
The real key lies in your style as a storyteller, because as the tools change and Post Production House In Dubai evolve, the basics and basic techniques remain the same.
Once you’ve mastered the technique, all you need to do is experiment with your compositions and get started! So, let’s talk about the technique.
Theoretical basis for timelapses
Shooting a timelapse is really easy. As we said in the previous article, a timelapse video is nothing more than a series of photographs in a sequence that shows the passage of time in a faster way. The first two things to do are therefore:
define the frame rate of your shot
define the duration of your video
And thus calculate the number of images needed for your timelapse according to the formula:
(Desired framerate) X (desired clip duration, in seconds) = (total number of frames needed)
It takes 240 still images to get 10 seconds of movie on a 24 frames per second (fps) project and 300 images to get 10 seconds of movie on a 30 fps project.
If you know the length of your take instead, take that time in minutes and multiply by 60 to get the total number of seconds. So take that number of seconds and divide by how many frames you want (240, 300, etc.). That number is the interval, or how long the duration must last between photos to capture the desired number of frames:
(Shooting time in minutes) X (60) ÷ (desired number of frames) =
Equipment needed for timelapse
There are many different timelapse kits for various budgets, but the only thing you really need is a camera and a way to view the video (I say you only need a camera because, technically, you can still manually press the camera button. ‘shutter a few hundred times, and you can simply set the camera to a solid structure, such as a tree or window sill, however this may require you to do more post work to stabilize the images).
Camera – The camera can be a point-and-shoot DSLR, smartphone, or action camera, but anything that captures images or videos and is easy to use will work.
Tripod – The most basic way to make your life easier when shooting timelapse is to have a solid foundation for your camera. If one of the keys in a timelapse has the same frame repeating over and over to show the passage of time, any compositional changes from unstable or wobbly bases will definitely affect the quality of your video.
Intervalometer – An intervalometer isn’t entirely necessary if your camera already has this feature built in, but if your camera doesn’t have this functionality, it’s essential. Activate your camera shutter at a certain interval for a certain period of time. There are also many apps that perform the same function, so check if your camera is compatible before spending any money.
Storage – Several hundred photos take up a lot of space. If you’re using a camera that writes to removable memory, make sure you have cards large enough to hold all the data and, in the case of photos, fast enough not to bog down the camera between exposures. Write speed and storage requirements change constantly from camera to camera, but check around before you buy and see what you need. Don’t just buy the cheapest and most basic cards available, as your performance can suffer. But you don’t necessarily need the fastest card on the market for most of your productions. That said, if you find a large amount of high-performance cards, buy them!
Other – A Neutral Density (ND) filter is great for bright scenes and increasing exposure time. Furthermore, it is always advisable to have extra batteries or cables on hand to power your device. A software or an app to determine the position of the sun (to plan the shooting and avoid reaching the shooting position when the sun is in the wrong position and the lighting is wrong) or stars (in the case of astro photography) are definitely to consider.
How to set up the camera for a timelapse
When you’re ready to shoot, charge the batteries and go to your location. Choose the best angle of your subject. You should choose a setting that offers viewers the most information and the most interesting and coherent action. People want to see things change in the frame, which is really the point. And remember, you don’t have to go far to get a great shot!
Manual mode – The most common mistake that ruins a good timelapse is a flickering image, both from white balance and exposure that automatically changes with the scene. It can be repaired, but requires more post processing. For this you have to work in manual mode. Since there are likely to be many changes in your scene that may be out of your control, the only thing you can control is the camera exposure. Avoid all automatic modes (in some cases you can use Aperture Priority (Av) mode, which keeps the aperture the same and adjusts the shutter and ISO to compensate for visual changes, but can still lead to an image that “flickers “).100% manual exposure control (or as much control as the camera allows) allows you to keep exposure consistent as the lighting of the scene or action changes. Then set your camera to manual mode, double-check the white balance, and take a few test images to see if you get the look you want.
Shutter speed – To lengthen the shutter speed or not, that’s the question. And the answer is… it depends on the situation and your preferences. For scenes like traffic, waterfalls, building a sand castle – pretty much anything where there are a lot of subjects moving fast in the frame – you may want to increase the shutter speed (by slowing the shutter speed down enough to create motion blur) to smooth out motion and really make it look like time is running out. Without the regularity of the shutter, the action jumps and lacks fluidity. By contrast, slower moving scenes such as clouds, flowers opening, or the rising moon does not need to have the increased shutter speed... You will most likely need an ND filter to do this in bright scenes like I said above. That said you can choose the duration of your shot or not based on what you like; just understand the differences and adjust them accordingly.
Night and day – Your timelapse will require less work if your lighting is consistent, for example on a clear sunny day, at night, or in a controlled environment such as a studio. It is a bit more
complicated if you go from day to night or night to day, because the lighting changes so much. You will need to make adjustments while the timelapse is spinning to compensate for the changes, and then between the photos make your adjustments. Keep doing this as long as you need it until the lighting becomes consistent and no further adjustments are needed (as long as the interval duration is long enough – you may need to make some fine adjustments if you don’t have much time). The best thing you can do is make the correct adjustments without moving the camera and take the time in post production to make sure you have a good transition between the changing frames.
Aim for the Stars – Find the darkest area you can at the time of a new moon. The less ambient light that comes from city lights, the moon, or campfires, the better. Set your camera with the fastest lens (the largest possible aperture) and open the aperture fully. Set the focus using the brightest star you can see with the current camera position, and set your ISO to the lowest possible setting , while still getting enough light to make a full exposure and avoid image noise. Finally, set the shutter speed. Take 500 and divide it by the focal length of the lens to get the exposure duration, or by a basic starting point, try setting it to 20 seconds. This will make sure if stars are dots instead of streaks (if you want streaks, slow down your shutter further and see what you like best!).
There are systems like dollies and sliders on the market that can add movement to your timelapse. They can add depth and dynamic three-dimensional movement to your video with very little extra effort, and are relatively easy to use.
Motion control systems cost quite differently, so there is something for every budget. Some are simple servo accessories that are installed between your camera and tripod, and some are much more complex systems.
It just depends on you and your budget, but with most basic systems you can: set a starting point, move the camera to where you want the movement to end (manually or with controls), set the duration of the movement and press the start.
More advanced systems will allow you to set these foundations, as well as give you more precise control over the speed of movement and will allow you to change virtually every aspect of the movement.
Some systems are actually controlled via Bluetooth on a phone or tablet, where you can visually draw your own movements and keyframes!
Fix problems in post production
There are a myriad of ways to edit your photos. If you want to have more control over the appearance of the image, you need to have some sort of editing software.
View photos and make color adjustments and apply them to all similar photos. Minimize drastic differences between photos if you have lights or color changes to avoid a flickering video result.
Failure is always an option
Making mistakes is part of learning, only those who don’t do it never make mistakes! Photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson said, “Your first 10,000 photographs are the worst,” so keep that in mind if you come out with an unusable timelapse.
You learn infinitely more from experimentation and failure than from daring nothing and ultimately you will lead yourself to hone your art and become a better artist in the long run.
Try as many angles, shooting settings and subjects as possible and find out what’s best for your workflow and style.
Check your progress too, preview your latest photo and make sure you see what you want to see and adjust accordingly londonlenders.co.uk